Dish-Off: Avila v. Cantinetta

Avila v. Cantinetta
Two chefs move fast to fuel a food fantasy. This month’s inspiration: “Little Red Corvette,” by Prince.

Photography by Rina Jordan

“On the verge of bein’ obscene” is how Prince describes his babe’s body in this 1982 classic; it’s also an apt description of the song itself. On the surface, “Little Red Corvette” sounds like it’s about a car, but it is filled with not-so-hidden sexual references. Chef Savuthy “T” Dye, who suggested the song after participating in last month’s Dish-Off, envisioned the use of aphrodisiacal foods but adds that since the song is about a woman going too fast (and a man who wants her to slow down), this month’s chefs might “move in a different direction, concentrating on the words ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ – maybe doing a gourmet take on fast food, or a combination of fast and slow foods on the same plate.” How will two Wallingford chefs get down and dirty in making a main dish that would please a Prince – or at least T and me?

Avila

Swordfish and Puttanesca Sauce

When told of the song, chef Alex Pitts and his team at Avila thought “fast cars and fast women” and immediately wanted to serve something that moves fast in the wild, settling on swordfish. “Since it’s predatory, it’s perfect for the song,” Pitts says. The fish is well chosen and well cooked. As for the name of the sauce, which translates directly as “of a whore,” restaurant owner Jared Carpenter explains delicately: “Prince is basically talking about a woman who – what’s the best way to put it – enjoys life.” This modern take on puttanesca sauce is colorful and delightful, featuring Tuscan Controne beans, Castelvetrano olives, cherry tomatoes and yellow peppers. A polenta cone finishes the dish, which looks as good as it tastes. I especially like the olives, a noted aphrodisiac.

Avila
1711 N. 45th St.
206.545.7375
avilaseattle.com

Cantinetta

Pork Three Ways

Cantinetta chef Brian Cartenuto is quite a character, as is easy to discern from his “Bachelor in the Kitchen” blog. This challenge was right up his alley. When he brings the pork-filled plate, he announces, “The song is not only about sex, but it’s actually all about vaginas.” As I worry whether this will be suitable for publication, he adds, “When I think about vaginas, I think about ‘porking,’ and since no one likes to do it in just one position, I present to you ‘Pork Three Ways.’” On one side, braised pork belly, crisped in pork fat, on a bed of shaved Brussels sprouts with pancetta; on the other, a pork and shrimp “shumai” – actually more like sausage on a stick – served with stone-ground mustard and kohlrabi and grapefruit salad. Cartenuto is a crazy chef cooking crazily good food.

Cantinetta
3650 Wallingford Ave. N.
206.632.1000
cantinettaseattle.com

Dish-Off reviews are based on announced visits. Restaurants receive guidelines and choose what to serve according to the month’s song.